Why Hyaluronic Acid Works So Well for Your Skin

Hyaluronic acid is among the most researched substances in dermatology. This naturally occurring molecule can bind up to a thousand times its weight in water and is crucial for hydration. Yet, scientists are still discovering new things. What does recent research tell us about the effects of hyaluronic acid on the skin?

What exactly is hyaluronic acid?

Hyaluronic acid is a molecule that occurs naturally in the skin. It belongs to the glycosaminoglycans: long chains of sugar molecules that attract and retain water. A single molecule can bind up to a thousand times its own weight in water. This remarkable property makes hyaluronic acid one of the most important components of the connective tissue that surrounds skin cells.

Hyaluronic acid plays a dual role in the skin. In the deeper layers (the dermis), it provides volume and elasticity, while in the upper layers, it helps retain moisture. As we age, the natural production of hyaluronic acid decreases. And you notice this: the skin becomes drier, loses its elasticity, and fine lines become more visible.

Hydration and the skin barrier

Well-hydrated skin isn't just a matter of aesthetics; it's also a matter of function. The outermost layer of the skin—the stratum corneum—forms a barrier that prevents water loss and protects against environmental aggressors. Research shows that hyaluronic acid plays a key role in the health of this barrier. It helps the skin retain moisture better, reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and supports the natural production of lipids and proteins that strengthen the barrier.

Science teaches us that hydration and barrier repair are closely linked: well-hydrated skin recovers faster and reacts less violently to external stimuli.

Short and long chains

Hyaluronic acids come in different forms, and they don't all behave the same way in the skin. Their effectiveness depends heavily on their molecular size.

• Long-chain hyaluronic acid consists of larger molecules that remain on the skin's surface. They form a hydrating film there, preventing water loss and leaving the skin feeling instantly softer.
• Short-chain hyaluronic acid, also called low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, consists of smaller molecules that can penetrate the epidermis more easily. They bind moisture in the deeper layers of the skin, stimulate fibroblasts to produce collagen, and thus improve skin elasticity and firmness.

Both forms of hyaluronic acid are present in the skin. This combination of short- and medium-chain hyaluronic acid creates a synergistic effect: immediate hydration on the surface and long-term absorption into the epidermis. However, research shows that short-chain hyaluronic acid (with a molecular weight of 50 kilodaltons or less) is the key to long-lasting hydration and regeneration from within.

The science behind short-chain hyaluronic acid

Recent research on hyaluronic acid focuses on how molecular size influences absorption and biological activity. Studies show that smaller molecules are not only better absorbed but also bind to receptors in the skin, such as CD44 and RHAMM. These receptors play a role in cell communication, wound healing, and inflammation reduction.

In vitro research also shows that short-chain hyaluronic acid stimulates the expression of genes involved in barrier function and hydration. This means it not only attracts water but also actively stimulates the skin to regenerate.

Biomimetic action: working with the skin

The unique thing about short-chain hyaluronic acid in skincare is that it works according to a biomimetic principle: it aligns with the skin's natural processes. By supporting the skin's own hydration mechanism, the skin barrier remains stronger, more supple, and better protected.

In modern skincare formulations, hyaluronic acid is therefore increasingly combined with skin-identical lipids and substances that support the microbiome. This synergy ensures that the skin remains balanced: hydrated, elastic, and resilient, without disrupting its natural equilibrium.

Deep hydration, scientifically proven

Research into the effectiveness of hyaluronic acid continues to evolve. Recent studies testing low molecular weights found significant improvements in hydration, elasticity, and skin texture.

It highlights a key insight: hydration isn't a superficial process, but a layered system that combines biochemistry, cell communication, and barrier function. By focusing on the right form—specifically, short-chain hyaluronic acid—skincare can mimic the skin's natural intelligence.

Sources & further reading

• Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: a key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 253–258.
• Ghersetich, I., Lotti, T., Campanile, G., Grappone, C., & Dini, G. (1994). Hyaluronic acid in cutaneous intrinsic aging. International Journal of Dermatology, 33(2), 119–122.
• Essendoubi, M., et al. (2016). In vivo and in vitro analysis of the penetration of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in human skin. Skin Research and Technology, 22(4), 447–454.
• Graf, R., et al. (2018). Ectoine protects against UVA-induced oxidative damage and inflammation. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology, 178, 301–308.